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I just watched it last night, and I thought it was pretty damn good.
I think it ties with Princess Mononoke, but I don't think it was any better than Mononoke (none of them compare to Studio Ghibli's magnum opus, Grave of the Fireflies).
The one thing that stood out was the (Japanese) voice acting. I loved it. It's one of the better Ghibli movies when it comes to vocals. I tried the English dub for a little bit, just for fun, and I hated it. It's just not the same. It loses all emotion. It's not the worst dub I've heard, but like with all dubs, it's hard for it to actually be GOOD.
The other thing I really liked about it was the amount of memorable characters that some Ghibli movies lack. With Mononoke, no one was ever really memorable for me, but Spirited Away had LOADS of them. I think about 95% of all the characters were memorable, at least.
Contrary to everyone else, I did not find the first 30 minutes boring. I didn't find ANY of it boring. It was all pretty fast-paced and enjoyable. Plot progression might have been slow at first, but the first half hour was just there to set the stage for the movie; to show and analyze the location before setting all chaos loose into the location.
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