How big a TV for the 1080p difference?

[mighty mint]

My wife and I were looking to get a new set and there was the HD DVD decision (we will be getting both---I am a sucker), then there was the size of the tv (we sit approx. 16 feet back from the screen) then came the 1080i vs. 18080p debate followed by the 120hz input of info. My head is spinning and my wallet is screaming "NNNOOOOooooooo!!!!" Then I read that the difference between 1080i and 1080p is only seen most clearly with the size of the display...so. What size tips the scale so that you can see a difference? There is certainly a difference in the shekels and newborn babies one needs to hand over! Thanks for the input you KNOW you want to offer

[Ruined]

1080i vs. 1080p in terms of signal transmission / output from HD player - makes no difference at any size unless your TV sucks at deinterlacing. You can have a 150" front projection setup and 1080i will look identical to 1080p with a good deinterlacer. This is through the magic of inverse telecine.

1080i vs. 1080p in terms of the TV's actual display resolution, however, can make a big difference at anything over 46" IMO.

If you are planning on getting one of the new 120hz Sony sets, don't bother buying more than a 1080i HD-A3 because they have excellent deinterlacing capabilities. I actually have a 1080p24-capable Toshiba HD-A35 hooked up to a 120hz 60" Sony KDS-60A3000 and I run the player at 1080i with the set deinterlacing w/ Cinemotion Auto2 because it works better with the various types of content you will see in HD (for instance, 1080p30/1080i60 nature/documentary/concert HD DVDs will stutter if you have your player locked at 1080p24).

[sub780lime]

How much would you want to spend?

[mighty mint]

We were thinking of $2700.00 with either a BR or an HD player thrown in (+tax). That is really interesting info Ruined...I have been reading your thread regarding your setup...I still can't figure how a 1080i can look just as good as a 1080p especially with the price difference between the two sets. Bizarro.

[Frankie]

Originally Posted by mighty mint

We were thinking of $2700.00 with either a BR or an HD player thrown in (+tax). That is really interesting info Ruined...I have been reading your thread regarding your setup...I still can't figure how a 1080i can look just as good as a 1080p especially with the price difference between the two sets. Bizarro.

Mighty, If Ruined posted tomorrow that the best way to go was to buy a 12 inch TV and wear pair of coloured glasses to get the best HD experience ..... I'd consider it.

But I'm sure he'll be back as to why the i is as good as a p

The search for the holy grail of the "best video we can get" is never ending.

F

[Derb]

I don't know of many sets you can buy that are native 1920x1080i.

Most are either 1280x720p or 1920x1080p now. The question is do ya want a 120hz set?

If so, you are good to go.

[Ruined]

Originally Posted by mighty mint

We were thinking of $2700.00 with either a BR or an HD player thrown in (+tax). That is really interesting info Ruined...I have been reading your thread regarding your setup...I still can't figure how a 1080i can look just as good as a 1080p especially with the price difference between the two sets. Bizarro.

I think its worth reposting this, which I created and posted a long time ago. For this example with my current Sony TV, simply replace "1080p72" below with "1080p120" (shorthand for 1080p24 @ 120hz). This is how 1080i looks identical to 1080p on my set - they both in terms of what is stored in the signal have exactly the same info, its just a matter of processing it properly. So while a TV that only displays 1080i will look inferior to a TV that can display 1080p, the actual transmission format of 1080i/1080p from HD players does not matter on a good 1080p TV.



My recommendation is the Sony KDS-60A3000 + HD-A2/HD-A3. That would cost ~$2200 after tax/shipping if you look for deals and you'll have $500 leftover to put towards a more important upgrade in your setup - like a vudu or TivoHD. The HD-A35 isn't going to give you any significant improvement over the HD-A3 with good quality display devices - it will only look better on crappier display devices with inferior deinterlacing.

Some more good info here on how 1080i can be deinterlaced to flawless 1080p24:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telecin...se_telecine.29
http://www.animemusicvideos.org/guid...h/video2_2.htm
http://neuron2.net/LVG/telecining2.html

[plissken99]

Originally Posted by Ruined

1080i vs. 1080p in terms of signal transmission / output from HD player - makes no difference at any size unless your TV sucks at deinterlacing. You can have a 150" front projection setup and 1080i will look identical to 1080p with a good deinterlacer. This is through the magic of inverse telecine.

Thats actually incorrect. When I used a CRT projector I regularly used a 1080i image at 120in, and with that res you often get visible horozontal scanlines, not so with 720p. I've seen 1080p set up at 133", and it was perfect, no scanlines at all(soon I'll have it for my 147in screen).

I stare at the TVs in Best Buy all the time, and I start to see a difference between 1080p and 720p is at 42in, it gets more notable at 50 and higher(this is where most people will start to see the difference).

[sub780lime]

$2700 with a player is very doable and you can get 1080p. From the same line as my TV, you can get a Samsung 61" DLP (if you don't mind DLP's) on sales for 2 grand.

[Ruined]

Originally Posted by plissken99

Thats actually incorrect.

Actually, its quite correct!

When I used a CRT projector I regularly used a 1080i image at 120in, and with that res you often get visible horozontal scanlines, not so with 720p. I've seen 1080p set up at 133", and it was perfect, no scanlines at all(soon I'll have it for my 147in screen).

You misread/misunderstood what you quoted... Read it again!

Again, 1080i/1080p signal transmission even at 5000" makes no difference if the 1080p set does proper inverse telecine deinterlacing. The 1080i signal when it arrives at the display gets converted to 1080p with zero signal loss, if done properly. Your example of a 1080i CRT projector having scanlines does not apply because now you are DISPLAYING 1080i, not simply transmitting 1080i and then deinterlacing to 1080p for display. Note that I mention this in the big image above as well. Once again, a 1080i signal contains all of the information of a 1080p signal, and therefore can be reconstructed to a 1080p signal - it is simply ordered differently.

[plissken99]

Oh oh gotchya, I see what you mean, yeah 1080i or p source makes no difference on a 1080i display. I was addressing the poster, that he was deciding between 1080i or p, so basically the rest of my previous post applies.