projector info

[TwistedByDesign]

i'm looking for a front projector.

i searched the forum already and most of these threads spoke about projectors to people with budgets of $3000-5000 so it didn't help me much.

What I'm looking for is a good projector that is also cost friendly, I really don't want to be spending more than $2000 if possible. (oh how I HOPE that's possible)

What should I be looking for in a good projector? How much do screens usually cost? any suggestions? etc...

thanks alot guys!

[I 8 Piglet]

You will really find a dearth of info on projectors, here. The first thing you need to decide is what type of technology you are looking for. There are really only two types of projectors in your price range (unless you want to go used and invest the time and effort in CRT, but that probably isn’t an option).

The first is DLP, as a whole DLP projectors have better black levels, and some say (I agree) that they produce a better picture, but that’s just an opinion. The major flaw with DLP is that all but the most expensive use a single DLP chip, and a color wheel to produce the image, and the cheaper projectors only use a 2x color wheel. That has a tendency to cause viewers to see rainbows in certain bright scenes against dark background. This has been known to cause fatigue in some viewers.

The second is LCD. With LCD you can get higher res cheaper. It is the only way you can get HD (720 not 1080, for under $2k). The other big thing with LCD is no rainbows. They are the older of the two technologies, and have a number of faults. They a problem known as "screen door", because they have so much space between their pixels, that if you make your image to large or sit too close, you can see the black lines surrounding the pixels, making it look like your watching through a screen door. However, from what I have heard the newer projectors have come a long way towards elimination this, or at least significantly reducing it. With LCD you also have the problem of dead pixels. Most manufactures have a policy that sets the number of dead pixels that it will allow before it considers the projector damaged and will replace it. I think Sony had the best policy (2) but I’m not sure. As I already said LCDs tend to have a lower contrast ratio which mean poorer black levels.

I have the X1 with was the big boy in the low end DLP market when it was new. Now Infocus' 4805 has replaced it.

The main competition my x1 faced from the LCD market was Sanyo's plv-Z1, which has now been replaced by the z2 and z3. From what I understand, the z2 and z3 marked huge advances over the z1, but the price has also gone up and is no longer toe to toe with the Infocus offerings.

If all you want is DVD playback they still sell the x1a, that doesn’t have as good a deinterlacer as the x1 (which doesn’t matter if you use a progressive scan DVD player), can be had for <$800. If you want the 4805, which is brighter, with a faster color wheel, and a native 16:9 resolution - it will run you about $1500. The z2 can still be had for around $2k, and is 1280x720.

I am not as up on current technology as I used to be. If you are serious about front projection check out the under $3500 forum over at AVS, all the info that you ever wanted to know about front projectors under $3500 (mostly under $2k of the content is about PJs under $2k).

As for screens, that’s a whole other story. You can buy a pull down for a couple hundred, a really nice on wall screen for around $500, a motorized one for around $2k, or you can build one for less than $50. I built mine. Reid built one, didn’t like it and bought screen material to finish it off. There is an entire forum over at AVS dedicated specifically to screens, when you get that far check it out. But defiantly worry about the PJ first, than the screen.

[Sycho]

you could get a low resolution digital projector for that price, it wouldn't be the greatest, if you looking into getting a used CRT, talk to plissken99, he has all the road maps to CRTs. You could make a nice screen for under $100.

[Iguana Man]

Well all I gotta say is....what I 8 Piglet said!

Actually, the Sanyo Z2 can be had for $1,459 !! with FREE shipping.

That's 200 less than I paid In my opinion...it's a really nice PJ for the money.

I also got a 92" DaLite High Contrast Perm Wall for under $500.

2K? You are sitting pretty!

[TwistedByDesign]

thanks alot guys!

Originally Posted by Iguana Man

2K? You are sitting pretty!

hah! not at all. That will basically be about 2-3 months of paychecks going 100% directly into the projector. at first I wanted to spend $1000 but then I realized that isn't very likely to happen.


i found this for $1500CDN:

http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/pro...d=&newdeptid=1

no idea how good it actually is though

[Pirate]

SANYO Z2! Great PJ at a great price! Check my signature for screen shots and specs

-PH

[plissken99]

Originally Posted by TwistedByDesign

thanks alot guys!




hah! not at all. That will basically be about 2-3 months of paychecks going 100% directly into the projector. at first I wanted to spend $1000 but then I realized that isn't very likely to happen.


i found this for $1500CDN:

http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/pro...d=&newdeptid=1

no idea how good it actually is though

No, thats an older LCD with lousy black levels and bad resolution. I second Iguana''s recommendation for the Sanyo Z2. It's only $200 more than the one you listed, and will outperform it in every way imaginable.

Z2 resolution 1280x720
Z2 contrast 1300:1

Sony resolution 800x600
Sony contrast 350:1

If you want a screen bigger than 60in, you'll need the Z2 resolution. If you want to watch Dark City or The Crow, and make out whats happening on screen, you need the Z2 contrast. Those two advantages alone justify another $1000 at least.

You do realize, that with any digital pj, you'll need to replace the bulb after 2000 hours right(most have 3000 hour econo made which reduces the brightness)? For most people, that means they replace a bulb about once a year, which will cost $300-$400.

[Iguana Man]

Originally Posted by plissken99

If you want a screen bigger than 60in, you'll need the Z2 resolution. If you want to watch Dark City or The Crow, and make out whats happening on screen, you need the Z2 contrast. Those two advantages alone justify another $1000 at least.

You do realize, that with any digital pj, you'll need to replace the bulb after 2000 hours right(most have 3000 hour econo made which reduces the brightness)? For most people, that means they replace a bulb about once a year, which will cost $300-$400.

Well he did say 2K at first, didn't he? And as far as the screen goes...he could wait and still hit his now $1,500 mark with the Z2. A temp screen for $50 worth of materials would give him something while saving for a real screen. I'm getting a bit confused on the changing dollar #'s.

[plissken99]

Originally Posted by Iguana Man

Well he did say 2K at first, didn't he? And as far as the screen goes...he could wait and still hit his now $1,500 mark with the Z2. A temp screen for $50 worth of materials would give him something while saving for a real screen. I'm getting a bit confused on the changing dollar #'s.

Same here.

[I 8 Piglet]

Originally Posted by plissken99

If you want a screen bigger than 60in, you'll need the Z2 resolution..

Definatly not true. My x1 with a VGA resolution looks just as beautiful at 100" as it does at 60". When you get upwords of 120", from what I understand, the major limitation is lumen output in film mode, not pixel structure, as long as your seating is 1.5 screen lengths back, although I have not tried this myself.

Originally Posted by plissken99

You do realize, that with any digital pj, you'll need to replace the bulb after 2000 hours right(most have 3000 hour econo made which reduces the brightness)? For most people, that means they replace a bulb about once a year, which will cost $300-$400.

I think those are overly conservitive estimates, and are more true for LCD than DLP. DLP seems to have the edge on bulb life, but Im not sure if there is a reason for that. The x1 is rated at 4000 hours, and people over at AVS are constantly reporting that number is on the low end of the scale. I have had my projector for a year and a half now, and have a little more than 1k hours on it, but I probably watch less than most people with all my school work. Also from my expererience bulb prices range a bit more. The x1 is only $200, and I have seen others (I think it was the Sharp, but Im not certain) was more than $700.

[Paul.n3w]

Just wanted to give my two cents on the subject. I have a Sanyo Z1 (rebranded as the Studio Experience 1HD). I got it about a year and a half ago, and have only put on about 900 hours. It seems like I've watched more than that... maybe my hours just don't stack up so fast because I don't play games or watch tv on it. So, depending on how you use your projector, you may not be changing your bulb every year... or every two years... or ever

I have a huge problem with cheaper DLP projectors because of the rainbow effect described above. It gives me a headache and is just generally uncomfortable to watch a movie on it. When my eye moves back and forth on the screen, I see flashes of different colors 'between' dark and light objects that are next to each other. If you can, test out a DLP projector at a local dealer before making a decision.

So, this is the main reason I went with LCD! Screen door is not a problem if you don't sit too close to your screen, or you don't make it insanely large. Sitting 1.5 feet away for every foot of your screen width is a good way to judge. And with the newer, higher resolution projectors this is even less of an issue.

You can create a DIY screen and save a LOT of money that could go into the projector. If you have a wall you would like to dedicate to the screen, you can buy Goo Paint and paint a professional-looking screen right on your wall for very little money.

Front projection is where it's at! I love my Z1, and someday I will upgrade to the beautiful Z3.

[TwistedByDesign]

well, i shall definately check out the Z2! thanks alot guys, I knew if there was one forum I could rely on for answers it would be you guys!

[Iguana Man]

Originally Posted by TwistedByDesign

well, i shall definately check out the Z2! thanks alot guys, I knew if there was one forum I could rely on for answers it would be you guys!

If you do go with the Z2, be careful. My friend tells me when he hooked it up to his PC via VGA (I think), the PJ detected a pc and for some reason would not pass Blacker than Black. I'll try and find out more of the specifics, but it's all moot if you go component or dvi or don't even plan on using a pc.

[Paul.n3w]

Originally Posted by Iguana Man

My friend tells me when he hooked it up to his PC via VGA (I think), the PJ detected a pc and for some reason would not pass Blacker than Black.

Is this a specific calibration or something? I have not heard the term before.

[Iguana Man]

Originally Posted by Paul.n3w

Is this a specific calibration or something? I have not heard the term before.

Sorry...it's the so called "pluge" test on Avia or DVD Essentials (calibration discs). He told me once he was there on the disc to test 'Blacker than Black' (pluge), he couldn't even see the bars which let you adjust your display device (in this case the Z2).

I'll try and get more specifics from him. I personally haven't calibrated MY Z2 ( ) but I know he said it's something to do with older pc's and how they handle blacks/whites and this specific connection. Again, it ain't a problem if you connect your pc via Component or DVI or even composite or S-Video.

Basically, Blacker than Black means the 'blacks' you see on the screen are not 'grayish'. They are in fact...black. Tough for most displays to do, and CRT's have less of a problem with this from what I know.

[Wirehed]

I think I remember this has to do with VGA, it's true for any device that uses VGA. You shouldn't have the problem with DVI though...and that's what you should use with a hometheater PC anyway.