DVDFile.com  

Go Back   DVDFILE.COM Forum > GENERAL HOME THEATER DISCUSSION > Your Home Theater
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-13-2005, 04:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
esc
Stay behind my aura!
 
esc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: camrose, alberta, canada
Cutting costs when building a HT

I have big plans for my new HT room, which i want to build by early next year (2006). I figure that I can have about $7000-8000 put away by that time, but when I add everything up it seems that I will need about $10000 to get the job done.

can anyone that has built a HT room give any tips on cutting costs without really sacrificing quality on sound proofing, new walls, screen, couches, etc.

I was thinking I'd have to spend 3000+ on leather couches and chairs, but I've found a couple places like Leons and The Brick that have really great once a year sales with as much as half off on furniture that I like, so saving $1500 on couches is a start.

what is going to hurt most is the sound proofing most companies dont list prices on their web sites. I dont know how I am going to get it below $2500 for a 16X24 room, plus the celing

Last edited by esc : 02-13-2005 at 05:32 PM.
esc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2005, 09:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
Actor
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Colorado
The best way to save is to DIY...at least as much as you feel comfrotable with. Framing a staggered stud wall us fairly simple, as is running the flexible conduit for all of your speakers and PJ. Insulation is easy to do, hanging drywall requires some muscle and a drywall lift that generally rents for around $60/day. Why pay someone to paint?

Get my point? Do as much as you can and enjoy the savings.
Frank Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2005, 11:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
esc
Stay behind my aura!
 
esc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: camrose, alberta, canada
Re: Cutting costs when building a HT

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Z
DIY
yes, i had absolutely intended to do as much of it myself as possible and for equipment and materials I still come out with a large ammount to spend. another snag that i ran into that may push the building of the room well into 2007 is the estimates I have been getting for the removal of a load bearing wall, and adding of supports that will hold up the celing once the center post is removed. (the theater is going in the basement)

has anyone ever had a wall removed in their home? especially a basement wall that has a main support in it? the numbers i am getting from engineers and contractors are just not making sense to me. ten to fifteen thousand to build and install a 16 foot wide support with 2 steel beams on each side (instead of in the middle, under the load point) and a large steel beam 16 feet long across the top, taking the weight of the upstairs.
I just dont get why the cost will be so high when i will be doing all of the ripping out of drywall, 2x4's, ducting, wiring and rebuilding after the support is installed.

here is a quick sketch of the rooms as they are now, and what i want to do.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ht room celing diagram.JPG (27.5 KB, 118 views)
esc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2005, 01:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
Producer/Admin
Tenacious "OB"
 
chlngr1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Spanaway Washington
Looks like a good plan. I think the only thing I would do different is moving the seating up 8 feet. Or maybe 6 feet and have two rows of seating. What kind of Projector do you want to use? I just installed an InFocus SP 7205 in my dads HT Room with a 92" retractable screen. It's not bad looking...

j
__________________
"The greatest thing you'll ever learn is just to love, and be loved in return" Christian, Moulin Rouge
chlngr1970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2005, 11:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
EM3
"Suspended"
 
EM3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Southern WV
Well I have never taken out a center support but I did help add a still beam and side support poles in a 2 car garage. You could paint them black so they wouldn't be noticible when the lights went out. My father in law had the supports and got the 24ft beam 2nd hand. He used a blowtorch to cut it to length and put bolt holes in it because he used two thinner beams instead of one larger one. It was real hard getting it in place. It required brute strength and a lot of planning. The supports are fastened directly into the concrete floor.

I can't figure out the 16 ft wide support but I'm not an architect. We just used the beam for support and columns to support the beam thus transfering the weight directly to the concrete floor. I'll reread your post later and if it makes more sense to me.
__________________
The beatings will continue until morale improves!
EM3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2005, 12:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
Actor
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Colorado
There have been a number of threads on this subject at HTF. I would strongly recommend contacting an architect to make sure the end result will still support the upper level or at least transfer the load to the appropriate point.
Frank Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2005, 02:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
esc
Stay behind my aura!
 
esc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: camrose, alberta, canada
Re: Cutting costs when building a HT

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Z
There have been a number of threads on this subject at HTF. I would strongly recommend contacting an architect to make sure the end result will still support the upper level or at least transfer the load to the appropriate point.
ya, thats why i have called in contractors and engineers, and they have given me insane ammounts for putting in the supports.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chlnger1970
Looks like a good plan. I think the only thing I would do different is moving the seating up 8 feet
well the diagram is not totally to scale, the seating will probably not be that wide and will be moved up at least a few feet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EM3
You could paint them black so they wouldn't be noticible when the lights went out ...... It required brute strength and a lot of planning. The supports are fastened directly into the concrete floor.
They will be covered with drywall/soundproofing/acousic material so painting them wont be an issue.
What you described is pretty much exactly what I'd be doing, but with a 16ft beam instead of a 24, then using a Hilti drill to attach the big side beams to the concrete.
esc is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT. The time now is 04:16 AM.


DVDFile, LLC